Brazil - BRAZZIL - Hints to enjoy Rio's Carnaval - Brazilian Behavior - February 2001


Brazzil
February 2001
First Hand

Invitation to Samba

Rio de Janeiro is the marvelous City. No one who has visited
will tell you any different. Rio at Carnaval time is
the best place on the planet to be.

C M Collins

Most agree Brazilians are a race apart. This includes other Latin Americans who find that while Brazilians understand Spanish an average Spanish-speakers will not understand Portuguese. If you or someone in your group does not understand Portuguese you should book a Rio beach hotel in Copacabana, Ipanema or Leblon where there is enough English spoken for you to get by.

Rio citizens are called Cariocas and their appreciation for the good life sets the national hedonism standards. This culture is known for highly sophisticated beach scene; outstanding music and dancing; rich cuisines; and the most tolerant attitude to sexuality anywhere in Latin America. Cariocas like to go to bed late and generally arrive late for appointments. Body contact is a fundamental part of the conversation as is kissing on both cheeks when greeting or parting. They will get closer to you in conversation than you are used too but you will appreciate their genuine friendliness and humor. Enjoying getting laid back with them at Carnaval time is infectiously easy if you try.

Street safety is very important in Rio as in most of Brazil. The main drill is not to carry anything more than you need including a wallet or purse. Do not display expensive cameras, watches or jewelry. Do not be afraid but do stay aware and do not hesitate to take a taxi if you become lost.

As of January 2001 former Mayor Cesar Maia is the new Mayor. Reducing crime and poverty were major issues throughout the country this election cycle with the people supporting the greater government intervention and accountability of Maia's Brazilian Labor Party (PTB).

The Sambadrome

Since it opened 1984, the Sambodrome has been the high temple of Carnaval of the planet. If you choose to parade with a group (costumes cost from $150 to $350) you will bathe in the most concentrated intense body of human spirit possible and after reaching the end of the 100,000-seat parade you enter Apotheosis Square elevated to divine status with the gods. Tickets to the Sambodrome can cost several hundred dollars and can usually be obtained by your hotel. Also you can try to get some a face value (as little as $80) by contacting the on line ticket broker www.funbynet.com.br. You can watch on TV this special group parade, which go from 7 pm to 6 am on Carnaval Sunday and Carnaval Monday too. The 13th and 14th place finishers will drop to the A league to make way for next year's challengers. The judging is both sophisticated and political.

The Carnaval Balls

You will find decadent, sweaty dancing bodies but probably no orgies when you head for a Carnaval Ball. Erotic flesh baring and sensual costumes are the most popular costume. This is a singles scene although you may discover the hot Brazilian number you've connected with is a professional. There are more exclusive balls like the Copacabana Palace on Carnaval Saturday ($300 advance only) but there are also plenty you can pay at the door that night (around $20). The most famous ball for people with alternative lifestyles (Gays, lesbians, bisexuals, transsexuals, drag queens, and transvestites) is Gala Gay at Scala in Leblon, on Carnaval Tuesday.

Carnaval in the Streets

While it's true that all the bars and streets have turned up their volume and energy level a few notches during Carnaval you do have to know where to look to find traditional Carnaval in Rio

Rio Branco

This major street in Rio is given up to the unofficial and for use by some of the smaller school parades. This is your best bet for where to head when in doubt but looking for the heights and depths of Rio Carnaval. Music will be provided by either static sound systems or moving music from either trios elétricos or drummers. This is where individual costumers will want to have their creative inspirations appreciated Bandas

Most Rio beach neighborhoods have a loose bandas (bun-dush) or blocos (blo-cush) to call their own and they will all be parading for Carnaval. They roam the streets along a pre-determined route when not "concentrating" at favorite spots. They start things off in the late afternoon. Start listening around 4 pm for their sounds, which can include brass as well as the beat of samba. You're invited to follow them like you belong regardless of whether you're in costume or just be part of the friendly throngs cheering them on.

Trios Elétricos

Copacabana seafront along Avenida Atlântica swings evenings from about eight or nine o'clock onwards. Moving stages called trios elétricos will be cruising up and down the seafront followed by thousands of revelers who are ready to party late once more.

Rio Carnaval on the Web

www.LIESA.com.br: League of Special Samba Schools Where to find official information about Rio's top samba schools

www.Ipanema.com (English, Portuguese & German) Dozens of insightful Carnaval pages as well as the best source for when and where to catch the bandas

www.terra.com.br/carnaval: (Portuguese only) one of Brazil largest media companies now has large web Carnaval presence featuring extensive event information for balls and Carnaval in the streets. Good coverage for nine other pre Lenten Brazilian Carnavals and extensive photos of Carnaval 2000.

www.uol.com.br/carnaval: Competition with terra.com is to our benefit. Many Carnaval stories and photos of Carnaval including both the historical and topical arranged under many headings as well as cities.

www.World-Party.com/Rio.htm: (English only) Their reporter will be covering Carnaval from the party angle for their third year in 2001.

www.love-rio.com/: Pulled back from an extensive 2000 coverage and their site is showing that cobweb indicator known as the "404 file not found" message. Still you can find the content of the #1 Rio Carnaval site from 1996 to 1999 and the beautiful website of the most awarded Samba School of the nineties: Imperatriz Leopoldinense

www.carnaval.com: The web's only Carnaval portal does extensive coverage on Rio Carnaval and Brazilian adventure travel with over 50,000 reviewed links. While the main pages only get a major makeover once a year there is an amazingly deep aforum.com section, which always has something new and interesting

C. M. Collins is the publisher of Carnaval.com and the San Francisco Mission District,s SFMission.com and often writes about his favorite subject. You can contact him a cmcollins@carnaval.com

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