Wow!

The lilting Portuguese language is also most attractive
and almost as sensual as the music. It was more than
we had ever dared to dream it would be. The weather is hot, and
we have breathtaking sea views from our room.

Liz Ashton

"Brazil? You must be nuts!" quipped a friend.

We are. Nuts about the music, the diverse and exotic climate and the 'natural exuberance' of its colorful people, now mirrored so aptly in the holiday brochure before us. Here at last was the tailor-made luxury trip my husband, Tony, and I had long dreamed of, enabling us to respond to that magnetic pull to América do Sul, which had had us eating, sleeping, talking and singing Brazil since our first taste of its hypnotic musical fruit, the bossa-nova, way back in the 1960s...

I kept a diary:

3rd September

Our first glimpse from the plane of the northern shores of Brazil set the pulses racing. Our Airtours International flight from London (Gatwick) landed in Salvador, Bahia, a couple of hours or so later, whereupon we had to unpack all our shoes for disinfection due to foot and mouth disease in the UK. In Brazil it is endemic, but presumably they would not wish to admit to that!

We stayed overnight at the posh Hotel Tropical, and were greeted at reception with our first caipirinhas of the holiday, (a drink made with cachaça—the local sugar cane spirit—crushed limes, sugar and ice), delicious and quite potent. No time or energy to do anything but have dinner and go to bed.

4th September

An early (5.00 am) start for the two-hour flight to Rio de Janeiro. Staying at the South American Hotel—close to Ipanema beach. Yes! Welcome drink—more caipirinhas! We can hardly believe we are really here, and are almost speechless with wonder. When we do speak, the word is "WOW"! (The first of many during the ensuing two weeks). In the afternoon we set off on the first leg of our long-awaited Jobim pilgrimage with a short walk to the 'Garota de Ipanema' Café, so named, as most people know, after the hit-song "Girl from Ipanema".

In the early 1960s, composer Antônio Carlos Jobim was inspired to write this now legendary bossa-nova classic while sitting there drinking coffee (and cachaça!) with his friend Vinicius de Moraes, the poet who wrote the lyrics to many of Jobim's songs, the inspiration being one particularly beautiful girl who used to pass the café on her way to the beach. Jobim's undoubted musical genius and his special affection for Rio mirrored in his songs has now been acknowledged by the city of Rio which has re-named its International airport after him.

(Wow!) His family must be so proud. I noticed that in the airport concourse, even the rubbish-bins were shaped like congas! We felt a special atmosphere in this famous café, and after our Coke and sandwich, we were further enchanted by all the photographs and newscuttings of 'Tom' Jobim, which adorn the walls. A trio of smiling samba buskers strolled by. (Wow!). I beamed my approval at their infectious rhythms, believing at last that this had to be Brazil. We then made the short walk to Ipanema beach where I just had to scoop up a small amount of sand, (bossa-nova 'gold-dust'), to bring home. (Wow!)

(Have not encountered much poverty or the gangs of street children we had anticipated, although the favelas (slums) are to be seen clinging to the hillsides in all major cities. These were the neighborhoods we were advised to avoid. Had there been more time in Rio, it had been my hope to visit the children at 'Casa Jimmy', a Shelter in Santa Teresa run by the TaskBrazil Trust in London, which has my active support.)

In the evening we went out to a Brazilian 'Churrascaria' restaurant, where you help yourself to various salads from a buffet, then various barbecued fish and meats, (up to 15 different types) are served at your table. The waiters keep returning and carving more until you say 'stop'. This was followed by a samba show at 'Plataforma' (another of Jobim's haunts). On the theme of Carnaval, the music, costumes and color were breathtakingly spectacular (yes, Wow!) like being at Carnaval but from the comfort and advantage of a front-row seat and with no jostling. At the finale, showgirls came down to dance with the audience, and Tony danced with one of them! (At least we think/hope it was a girl!)

5th September

In the morning we took the cable-car ride up Sugar Loaf Mountain. There were spectacular panoramic views of Rio and Copacabana Beach from the top. In the misty distance we could also just make out the statue of Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor) towering high above this teeming city of contrasts on Corcovado Mountain. That afternoon we took a (much) closer look via a half-hour rack and pinion railway journey through Atlantic rainforest—the only central city jungle in the world.

Wonderful sights en route, including many different large and colorful butterflies. After climbing the final 234 steps to the top (not as daunting as it sounded), there before our very eyes appeared the 30m high statue of Christ the Redeemer—mega WOW—could hardly speak. Are we really here? Jobim's song "Corcovado" ("Quiet Nights of Quiet Stars") came to life—"...this is where I want to be...." etc. Although made of stone, there was a strong sensation of something tangible emanating from this awesome structure.

By now the mist had lifted and the sky was clear so we had outstanding views of Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, and the Bays of Guanabara and Botafogo, plus of course, a 'reciprocal' view of Sugarloaf Mountain, now looking quite small by comparison. A Brazilian proverb says that "God created the world in seven days, of which two were needed just for Rio de Janeiro". Tonight we had dinner in the hotel—undivided attention from all the staff and chef as we were the only ones dining in! An excellent meal and only about £12 ($17) each, including wine for the two of us.

6th September

Another early start for our onward tour to Iguaçu Falls, via Curitiba. (Internal flights are the main domestic transport in this vast country). Bye-bye, Rio. Two days was not nearly enough. (See you again one day!) After temperatures in the upper 80s (Brazilian winter!) in Rio, Curitiba was noticeably colder, and passengers joining the flight were wearing sweaters/jackets etc. On its final approach into Foz do Iguaçu, the plane flew really low and circled over the Falls and the Itaipu Hydro-electric Dam—what a view! (yep, another Wow there).

On landing we went straight to the Falls for a guided tour. Lovely new Visitor Centre and many tropical creatures.

(We have to say here that everywhere so far in Brazil there have been pristine loos! Would put certain British ones to shame.) At the start of the tour we saw salamander, toucans and coatamundi—and that was just by the car park! The forest had hundreds of beautiful butterflies of every shape, size and color. WOW! However, all were camera-shy, so you will have to take our word for it. Falls quite gobsmacking. Reputedly higher, wider and more spectacular than Niagara. There are 275 falls merging into one river, an amazing sight and thunderous sound, never to be forgotten.

In the evening we checked into the very smart Golf Hotel, with accommodation in bungalows designed in Spanish 'hacienda' style, where we were transported by golf-buggy! In the evening we went out with a couple we had befriended to another churrascaria in Iguaçu town. (Transport laid on and accompanied by our courier, Anna). The meal was excellent, five caipirinhas and loads of different meats. However, we all drew the line at bull's and turkey's testicles! We noted that the waiters in this border town had very much of an Andean appearance. More caipirinhas back at the hotel, then bed.

7th September

Brazilian Independence Day. Another visit to the Falls, but this time from the Argentinean side, (totally different views). It was interesting to cross the border (more shoe-dipping) and to see, at one stage, Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay all from the same viewpoint.

The Argentinean side of the Falls was another big 'WOW'. We saw many rainbows as the sun shone through the thunderous spray. Took a boat trip to the base of the Falls and got well-soaked! After that the boat took us down through white water rapids for a mile or two and dropped us off on a small beach, where there were hundreds of yellow butterflies—what a sight. (They seemed to be feeding off minerals in the sand.) A safari truck was waiting to give us a guided tour through the jungle, returning us to the starting point of our tour. Our clothes soon dried off in the heat.

After a brief visit to a Craft Centre we were taken back to the airport where we changed into some fresh clothes for the next leg of our adventure north to Manaus, Amazônia. What should have been a direct 4½ hour flight to Manaus that afternoon (according to the Airtours brochure) turned out to be a 13-hour marathon via São Paulo, Brasília, (then a change of plane), Porto Velho and—in the early hours—Rio Branco, (back of beyond, it seemed) where we were then fogged in for two hours! We finally arrived at Manaus at around 5.30 am the next morning. Then it was half-an-hour by coach to the river, followed by a 45-minute boat trip that finally brought us to our jungle lodge in the Amazon Rainforest, where we arrived in torrential rain (!) This gave us another soaking! It did not matter as the rain was warm. Sleep deprivation really kicking in now.

8th September

After less than 2 hours' rest, we were up again for a boat trip to visit a nearby monkey sanctuary, set up by the Living Rainforest Foundation, where spider, woolly, squirrel, and "red-faced" varieties came to greet us—one sat on Tony's shoulder. It's very hot and humid here, but bearable. The animals can roam freely, (only the babies are caged for their own protection), but all will eventually be rehabilitated into the deeper jungle. Either they have been orphaned or their habitat destroyed. Having said that, it must be made clear that the Brazilians are totally aware of the jungle being the 'lungs of the world' which must never be destroyed. This is why Eco-Tourism is now being actively promoted, so that money can be earned, whilst preserving the natural environment. Back to the lodge (Amazon Eco-Park) for lunch, followed by a short siesta.

Off again on a high speed motorized canoe for a one-hour trip to visit an Indian village—'Caboclos' people, a mix of Indian/White—very beautiful. The children were of course, very curious. This community lives very basically from the river and local plants, but do grow some manioc (tapioca) and fruit. They are virtually self-sufficient, and only need to acquire enough money for coffee, salt and soap. I bought a bread basket made by "Maria", aged 34, mother of 8 children and one on the way. One of her daughters, aged 14, already had one child.

They do not marry, but form a reasonably stable long term relationship. Interestingly there are more girls than boys, so the boys often father children with several girls. At dusk each evening the women have to gather up the children, chickens, and everything else into their small family houses, away from marauding alligators, jaguars, pumas and anacondas! As dusk falls at 6.00 pm each day, and there is nothing else to do, there are quite a lot of children!!

Back at the lodge we had a most delicious, exotic supper (and more caipirinhas!!) followed by a performance of traditional Amazon 'Boi' music and dance. The band and dancers were excellent, again great rhythms and costumes, the girls were very beautiful, (café-au-lait in color)—Tony fell in love that night! In fact, Brazil is full of very beautiful people, many of whom are of mixed race and color over the 500 years since the arrival of the Portuguese, African, European and many other peoples. On this occasion it was my turn to join in the dancing at the end! At 5' 7" I was several inches taller than these 'petite' Indians. Back to the lodge for bed at a reasonable hour. Although basic, we nevertheless have the luxury of en-suite, h & c and air-conditioning! (all eco-friendly, of course). And as for the dawn chorus, you've got it—Wow!

9th September

Yet another early start, but anticipation for the next adventure (all-day river trip) helps maintain the momentum. (That and the increasingly attractive prospect of chilling-out at a luxurious Bahian beach resort for our second week!) Every exotic fruit you could think of for breakfast. The dining room is an open veranda style, and we were frequently joined by parrots and macaws! Yup, can't believe it, but the pictures in the brochures are true! One green parrot, 'Laura', could say hello in several languages, and when coaxed would also sing and samba to the song "Brazil"! All these birds are wild and free, but very tame when it comes to tit-bits! More exotic birds, flowers and trees in the surrounding jungle, including humming-birds and various lizards. Thankfully only tiny spiders, much to Tony's relief! The sights and sounds of the jungle both day and night are quite magical. (Wow!)

The river-trip down the Amazon headed for the place where the rivers Solimões and Negro meet, and being different colors and temperatures, the waters, once met, travel alongside each other without mixing for five miles—one river is black and the other coffee/cream. All part of the magic of the Amazon. Had lunch (and caipirinhas) at a floating restaurant on Lake January, then went on a raised wooden walk through the jungle to a giant lily-pond, where we saw young caiman (1.5 m long) being fed. An Indian boy, aged about 9 or 10, had followed us along, carrying a young 'pet' sloth, quite clearly to pose for photographs and, hopefully, to be paid.

Many children, in fact, ply tourists in this way, some in canoes, holding various young animals such as monkeys and anacondas. We then returned to the lake to a floating craft shop, bought some gifts for the family, and an 'Amazônia' baseball cap for me. (Impulse purchase?!) It was a very hot and humid 35°c. Next on the agenda was a motorized canoe trip up Lake January, and into the Igarapés—jungle creeks—where we saw iguana, and many different birds, including those of the kingfisher and heron family. Still no spiders!

Returned to the Lake (still baking hot) for an hour's piranha fishing, and Tony caught a red-bellied piranha, around 8" long. This was carefully unhooked by our Indian guide who then demonstrated to us the sharpness its teeth by offering the fish a small twig, which it snapped in two like a bread stick. This piranha was returned to the river, but others took their catch back to the lodge to be cooked for supper.

Back to the riverboat for the two-hour return trip to the lodge. Spotted pink dolphins, and also 'Greenpeace' vessel in Manaus harbor. Watched a distant thunderstorm ahead getting ever nearer—eventually we met it head-on and the rest of the journey was in torrential rain. The thunder and lightning were like we have never known before. The river also became extremely choppy. These rainstorms happen once a day for about an hour, then the rest of the time it's fine. Supper (more caipirinhas!!) then a quiet evening before much-needed sleep. Two large (pet) tarantulas were apparently let loose in the restaurant area that evening, but luckily for Tony, he did not see them!!

10th September

Decided to keep this morning very quiet, opting out of a jungle walk in view of the next long journey that would immediately follow. Quiet time also needed to re-order our suitcases, (much rummaged) and thus our brains, as we had not been able to unpack for a week. I took a stroll round the beautiful grounds taking photos, intrigued by the fruit of the cashew-nut trees lining the pathways. (Not so much 'Acacia' as 'Cashew' Avenue!) Tony enjoyed a relaxing cold shower, and then it was farewell to Amazônia for the final leg of our tour. I asked our guide, Paulo, to teach Laura (the parrot) the bossa-nova for our next visit!

Our flight from Manaus to Salvador, (via Brasília), due at 2.30 pm, finally took off at 6.30 pm, (pilot apparently ill—a replacement had to be found) and so you will guess we missed our connection in Brasília. With no further flights that night, arrangements were made, very efficiently, for us to stay overnight (courtesy of VASP Airlines). Just another aspect of our adventure if somewhat unexpected.

The hotel was very swish, The Nacional, and we did feel just slightly grubby walking into dinner with all the dignity we could muster, having just emerged fresh off the plane from Amazon territory in shorts and T-shirts! A couple of caipirinhas and who cared, anyway? In my very limited understanding of Portuguese, I managed to translate a plaque indicating that HM The Queen and Prince Philip had opened the hotel in 1968.

11th September

Early dawn revealed a hazy, pink sunrise which cast a mellow glow over this concrete capital, and from our fifth-floor bedroom window, we could just make out the top of Brasília Cathedral. The morning flight to Salvador was not only direct—oh, joy!—but reasonably punctual (i.e. only 30 minutes late). Had a wonderful view of the Rio São Francisco.

As our coach turned into the palm-fringed drive-way through beautiful Bahian tropical gardens leading to the Praia do Forte Eco-Resort, we could barely contain our excitement and anticipation that this long-planned-for "paradise on earth" dream was about to become reality. Our courier's mobile phone rang, and visibly shaking, he stood up to speak: "I am afraid I have some terrible news ..... "

Couldn't take it in, of course. As numb as the rest of the world. Once in our room we forced ourselves to switch the TV on to CNN "just to get the basics", but no chance of 'basics' with this wall-to-wall US news-channel. Soon found the off-switch.

The general consensus among the guests was that, yes, it was an appalling tragedy, but we were here on holiday, and as the days passed and more news trickled through, we, along with the world, had to resist the disruption it was designed to cause. (In retrospect, we thought the pilot being 'off-sick' in Manaus the previous morning was a bit spooky, but no repercussions there). What I thought was very touching and an interesting perception, though, was the Brazilian hotel staff saying how sorry they were for us (the English) because the Americans are our friends. All the Brazilians we met are really lovely people.

The Praia do Forte Eco-Resort is just the most fantastic place. Described as Brazil's 'Polynesian Paradise', everything is so beautiful, exotic and colorful. The sights, sounds and flavors all hit the senses full on. Flowers, birds, monkeys, lizards, cicadas, azure sea, silver sand, palm trees, and international food judged in a survey to be the 'best on the planet'. Many Brazilian guests here, (the more affluent ones, I would guess) and there are girls (and guys!) 'from Ipanema' everywhere! WOW, WOW, WOW!

The lilting Portuguese language is also most attractive and almost as sensual as the music. In the bar they play Brazilian CD's, João Gilberto, Caetano Veloso, etc,—magic! There was also a guitarist singing and playing by the pool area in the early evening. As we entered the 'Goa' restaurant for dinner, a live duo was playing 'Wave'. Couldn't believe it. It was more than we had ever dared to dream it would be. The weather is hot, and we have breathtaking sea views from our room. After a week of living out of a suitcase, it was luxury to unpack and have our belongings in some sort of order, instead of burrowing into cases for everything from sandals to sun-cream!

The staff are delightful, friendly and plentiful, and it shows in the way every corner of this beautiful complex is so neat and clean and cared for. The waitresses dress in traditional Baiano costume, blousy tops, billowing white lacy skirts, flowers in their hair and lots of beads. More beautiful people. Don't get many of them down our High Street! All the meals are buffet-style and the choice is gobsmacking. Live duo each evening, then later on a samba-band in the pool area. All excellent. Brazilians know how to samba—it must be in-bred, as even small children have "the walk"! First proper night's sleep since we got here.

12th September

Our 37th Wedding Anniversary, and where better to spend it? We walked to Praia do Forte village (15 minutes) and found some delightful little art and craft shops. Bought a few gifts, plus two bottles of cachaça from the local supermarket at £0.75 ($1) each (£17—$24—each in UK and hard to find at that). A very hot day. Reminiscent of India in many ways. Another memorable dinner in the fantastic 'Goa' restaurant. The beer and fresh fruit-juices are inclusive—just try a delicious chilled double water-melon hi-ball. Pure nectar. Very sleepy this evening. Either too much heat or cachaça or both!

13 September

After a heavenly breakfast we walked to the village again and visited the TAMAR Project—Turtle Sanctuary. The whole beach for 12 km along past our hotel is a protected turtle breeding area. Saw some tiny recent hatchlings awaiting release into the ocean. We bought fresh roasted cashews—scrummy! On our way back through the village, we also bought a berimbau, the musical bow instrument with a metal string and gourd resonator.

The shop-keeper demonstrated how the sound is made with 'a stick, a stone'. (I start humming "Waters of March") Opa!—How do we carry it home? (carefully!) Also bought more camera-film (4 rolls used already!) Time is passing in a relaxed, gentle manner. Received delicious basket of fruit from the Hotel management for our anniversary. Asked the duo after dinner if they knew "Corcovado", and managed eventually to convey to them that we were asking if they would play it tomorrow (amanhã). They nodded enthusiastically.

14 September

The sun rose at around 6.00 am as usual on another crystal-clear morning. A busy day planned, relaxing by the pool, and taking photos of the beautiful grounds. It's a tough life! Sipped fresh coconut milk while watching the more energetic doing aqua-aerobics, although my foot got some exercise tapping to the music! Must take samba lessons—it's not just the hips, it's the footwork.

Tried the local Bahian specialty "acarajé" (spicy bean cutlets) for lunch. Cooked with shrimps in the rich, strong dendê-oil, it was really not to my taste. However moqueca de camarão (prawn stew) was quite delicious, rather like Prawn Korma. Took a short siesta (my first in a hammock). As I gently rocked in the shade of our patio, I looked up at the azure sky, listening to the rolling ocean, watching monkeys and yellow birds 'up high in coconut tree' and uttered a hushed 'Wow!' Pinch me, someone! Have asked resident biologist to provide us with a check-list for local bird life. I adore the poetic Portuguese name for humming-bird—"beija-flor" (flower-kisser).

Dinner was yet another gastronomic delight. Infinite choice and as much as you want. The music duo obliged us with "Corcovado" and "Girl from Ipanema", sung and played beautifully and directly to our table. This is where I want to be ..... ! Exchanged a few pleasantries with them afterwards, courtesy of one of the staff who acted as interpreter.

15 September

Another glorious day. Got our birdchart from Sergio. There are so many lovely birds here, and we hear more than we see, I'm sure. Saw green lizard—about 10" nose to tail. Enjoyed a lazy swim before lunch. The pools are sea-water, very soft and caressing, and of course, beautifully warm. The aqua-aerobics instructor continues to entertain his class with verve and enthusiasm, (often wearing a multi-colored 'rasta' wig!) A game of water-polo followed. Mostly exuberant Brazilians who clearly enjoyed the game, shouting "Olé!" at the slightest opportunity. It was hilarious to watch their antics—great entertainment.

Then at 1.30 pm was Water Axé (pronounced 'ashay') exercise-class with appropriate regional Axé music. Same instructor—he must be the fittest guy here! Picking up various words of Portuguese—discovered after several attempts to order Rum and Coke, that what I should have been asking for was "Cuba Libre". In reciprocation, I taught the waiter the English word 'rum' which in his Portuguese pronunciation came out as 'hoom'. We're both learning.

That evening after dinner, we were treated to the fascinating and colorful spectacle of a Capoeira Show—a fast-paced and heart-stopping demonstration of martial art/dance of African origin, accompanied by spellbinding traditional drums/percussion. On the walk back to our room, it seemed some small 'rocks' had appeared in the gardens that we hadn't seen before. Closer inspection revealed that they were actually huge toads! (around 9" long).

16 September

Our last full day of luxurious relaxation and pampering—we could get used to this! Made a few more gift purchases, then I took one more swim in that beautiful water. Began the process of reluctantly packing to go home. Enjoyed every last mouthful of our final spectacular dinner, this time accompanied by a different musical duo—a girl singer and keyboard-player, who were both excellent, highly-talented and with an undeniable jazz feel. They were gentle, non-intrusive and played lots of bossa stuff much to our delight, and obviously also that of others. Many people stayed on in the restaurant to listen after they had finished their meal, including us. The perfect ending. Thank you, God.

17 September

Completed our packing, having to reactivate our dormant brains to decide whether items were for case or cabin. Took one last stroll around the breathtaking gardens, then settled in the bar to complete the hotel questionnaire and await our coach back to Salvador Airport. One question asked "Would you come here again?" Our answer of course was "yes". Next question: "Why?" Answer: "We have found paradise!"

No travel problems had been predicted, but on arrival at the airport for the evening flight home, we encountered an enormous queue which had accumulated due to obvious extra security on baggage checks. Just one more 'adventure'! The upshot was—all luggage into the hold, including flight-bags. Having stretched our brains already that morning, this almost totally phased us, and we just had time and presence of mind to retain one or two bits like travel documents, medication, etc. Tony was mostly concerned about his two bottles of cachaça which were now about to be sent on their way into the hold! A 'Fragile' label was provided and we just crossed our fingers and hoped.

We arrived safely at Gatwick next morning, (grey skies, pouring rain, and 13°—yuk!) but with the inevitable further delays, again due to security. We had to sit an hour in the plane after we had landed as there was no gate for us (everything was 'backing-up'). As the baggage eventually arrived, damp patches appeared on the carousel. "There goes my cachaça!" thought Tony, but it was actually only rain off the cases, then—yes! the cachaça arrived intact, as did the berimbau, which had clearly traveled "percussion class" and was wheeled in with several others on a special trolley!

Although we are home, we have spiritually still not touched earth yet. Our trip of a lifetime has been exhilarating, exhausting and unforgettable, our travels during the first week being the equivalent to a tour of Europe. Each area was like a separate holiday and every one a gem. Two months later, we are still buzzing with our experiences, and those who know us say it shows. Brazil, how we miss you, but caipirinha is soothing the saudade ...... Cheers!

And as we promised Rio—the cidade maravilhosa—we will be back.

Liz Ashton, the author, is a part-time secretary to an Archdeacon in the Church of England, and also a semi-professional jazz singer with a particular love of Brazilian music. She is married with three grown-up daughters and two grand-children. Contact her at liz@ashton1.clara.co.uk or check her Web page: www.ashton1.clara.net  

© Liz Ashton 2001

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